In times of increasingly rare alpine achievements, it was a pure joy to learn about Italian Stefano Ragazzo's ascent of "Eternal Flame". I looked for him to tell me more, although I was aware that such an adventure could hardly be described. It can only be experienced.

In a world of increasing commercialization, Stefano reminded in an uncompromising way the "know-how" to make worthwhile achievements, guided by one's own convictions and the values ​​characteristic of high-class alpinism. The Italian, who is the age of Christ (33 years - note ed.), spent 9 days alone on one of the most impressive walls in the world, managing to climb solo, with a rope, the extremely technical route "Eternal Flame" (650 m , 7c+) on the Nameless Tower (6251 m) of Trango, in Pakistan. This is the first ascent of the historical line in this style. It was done from July 17 to 26.

The route, often described as the most difficult free climb at high altitude, was completed by Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang GülLich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora in 1989. In 2009, it was free climbed by Alex and Thomas Huber brothers. (You can read my interview with Thomas here).

Earlier this year, the Italian rope-soloed "The Nose" of El Cap, in the USA.

We did the interview online, after his return from Pakistan and shortly before he devoted himself to his work as a mountain guide.

Here it is.

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Interview by Tanya Ivanova
When did “Eternal Flame” become a goal for you?

Stefano: I was in Patagonia for the first time in 2016 with Silvia Loreggian - my life and climbing partner. At that time we were two 25-year-old kids full of dreams. At El Chalten we shared a place with several guys, including David Kent Russell - an American climber and artist. You can see his murals on the airport wall of LA. During the long periods of bad weather he would draw and talk to us about climbing. At the end of our stay, I asked him to draw something in my diary - to suggest walls that would be good for me to climb. He painted El Capitan and the Nameless Tower.

I thought about it for several years, but it seemed impossible. In the meantime, I gave up many things: my job as a guide, some friendships and the possibility of a stable life - just to follow my mountain dreams. An you know - sometimes life gives you signs and it's up to you to follow them. In the last 3 months I just did what David put in my diary - "The Nose" (El Cap, USA) and "Eternal Flame" (Nameless Trango Tower, Pakistan), rope solo.

At that time - when you were in Pakistan, your partner - Silvia, was also there, but as a member of the Italian expedition to K2. Is that why you went solo?

Stefano: Last year I started organizing an expedition to Pakistan to an unclimbed peak with Silvia, but in November she was invited by the Italian Alpine Club to climb K2 for the 70th anniversary of it’s first ascent. Then I started organizing expedition with some The North Face athletes, but after climbing a long route in the Mont Blanc area with one of them, I realized that I didn't want to go on such a wild expedition with them. I was alone again. The word "alone" began to be present more and more during the winter months and the Nameless Tower once again emerged from the depths of my mind. That were those signs...

Sending itself took you 9 days. Can you give us some details about the soloing?

Stefano: I climbed french free - the classic technique used to climb routes like “The Nose”, as free as possible. I climbed free all the mixed pitches and most of the pitches up to 6c+. The splitter cracks around 7a/7a+ I tried to climb as free as possible but at the end I did minimum one rest. From the 7b I fully aided, apart for some free mandatory moves you have to do in the hardest pitches. I had food for 6 breakfast and 5 dinners plus bars, gels etc.

Here is a kind of a schedule of these 9 days:

Day 1 - climb to sunny terrace;

Day 2 - bad weather, stay in portaledge;

Day 3 - pitch 10, 11, 12;

Day 4 - pitch 13, 14;

Day 5 - pitch 15-19 (snow ledge);

Day 6 - bad weather, portaledge;

Day 7 - pitch 20-25;

Day 8 - pitch 26;

Day 9 - summit.

The last days the sky became blue and for the first time there were no any scary clouds around.

How it felt to be alone on such an imposing wall with bad weather in addition? Some climbers play musical instruments... :)

Stefano: I think this time the big difference came from my mind. I’ve always tried to follow the flow and to not fall in negative thoughts. When it was the time I putted all myself into the climb, and when it was better to wait - I just stayed calm in my portaledge. My mind was totally off. It’s like when you are concentrated to send a pitch in the crag, there is only you and the crag, nothing else. The difference with Trango was that I was in such concentration not for 1 send, but for 9 days. And when I reached the summit I realised I didn’t know since how many days I was on the wall? My mind was absolutely empty and that was awesome. Then I kneld down and I cried. I looked at the K2 where Silvia was, and I felt that I missed her.

You lost your sponsor right before the expedition because - as you wrote in your profile - you didn't post enough on social media. How did this affect your adventure?

Stefano: I started climbing quite late - after high school. I am not a full-time athlete and have to work as a mountain guide to pay for my trips and expeditions. The years of pain, dedication and training paid off. I've always followed my own path, sometimes it's been hard for me, but I always keep going.

Photos: Stefano Ragazzo's personal archive